Monday 5 March 2018

Manual: The XRV 650 as adventure bike

First question to answer: is the XRV 650 the definitve bike for starting an adventure?
The answer is simple: No.
There is not a perfect adventure bike as the word adventure change from person to person. The best compromise are for sure the single cylinder by KTM (640 adventure, 690 enduro and the rally bikes, as show by Lyndon Poskitt), which are very light and can tackle everything.
But as money plays a big role for normal humans, it's all about compromises.
For example I paid less than 1000 € for my XRV 650, which came in a great shape and ready for easy adventures. 

Let's analyse the XRV and see what it should be done in order to make it ready for tackling almost everything.


Front wheel 


-Change the two wheel bearing anb buy two more as spares ( SKF 6202 2RSH  are suitable, for my Swiss friends: www.brw,ch) 

-Change the two Seals (buy them by cmsnl or similar). If you removed the mechanical speedometer, you can remove the gear on the wheel and use a 20x50x7 seal and a spacer (ID 15, OD 20, L 32 mm). You can machine the original housing of the gear away in order to have a spacer.
- If the rim is not corroded, keep it. It is very strong and it won't give you any problem. If there is corrosion, replace it in order to avoid problems in the middle of nowhere. I suggest to aks central wheel in the UK for this job.

Front Suspension and triple clamp


-Strip the suspension down by following the manual, check the bushings and replace them if necessary.

- Replace oil seals and dust seals (Pyramid one on ebay always worked fine for me).
- Replace the original springs with aftermarket ones. I have wilbers (bought on ebay) but any other manufacturer should be fine. Then use spasher washers for increasing the preload to the desired value (You find them at www.brw.ch) .
- Fork boots: you find on ebay the neoprene ones (Neoprene Fork Gaiters). The original ones are to expensive, replicas are shitty rubber that breaks immediately.
- Check the bearings of the trip clamp, if there is rust replace them, including the seals. (http://www.marksman-ind.co.uk/bearings/ , article is 32005/26 26x47x15 , I've bought the seals by cmsnl).

Brakes


- Replace the front hose with a braided one

- Replace the discs if necessary (HO05RID and HO05FI ) buy one by Breaking and use brembo blue pads (BRPADS-29748), all parts can be found at https://shop.biollamotors.it/
- Buy a front master cylinder repair kit and sealings of all calipers, keep them as spares in case of failure.

Cooling system


- Replace the coolant, best price in Europe is by https://shop.biollamotors.it/

- Replace the thermostat (Doesn't have to be original as it is very expensive).
- Use Rugged Roads radiators guard with a soft sponge in between the protection at the radiators (https://www.zachmanndo.ch/b2c_de/schaumstoff-ktm-zm-pp18-54835980000-19.html)

Fuel system


- Replace the pump with a Mikuni depression one: http://www.bellomokart.com/it/pompe-di-benzina-accessori/3187-pompa-di-benzina-mikuni-df52-82.html?search_query=mikuni&results=6

Watch out that you will need more parts (The fitting for the depression hose, an Y joint for avoind fuel to get into the pump and all the hoses). You can buy a pump kit also by Boano which has all the above mentioned items.
- If the fuel sensors are not working, repair them by looking at the various tutorial on the web.
- Swiss friends: replace your carburator pilot jets with original ones (38 in measure) and the pilot air screw buy buying the parts at cmsnl. You are not able to adjust the original Swiss pilot air screw and with the original Swiss 35 pilot jet, the motorbike is extremely lean.
- Swiss friends: the vacuum piston is also different, the small hole in it has to be drilled bigger (Diameter of the air passage has to be increased to 3.4 mm)
- Swiss friends: replace the rubber between carbs and cylinder's heads with the full power original one.

Rear Suspension


- Rebuild the rear shock absorber (Mototekna.it can check it and put a valve so that it will be easier in future), change the spring with a stiffer one, you can find the Ohlins ones by zachmanndo, I took the stiffest one)

- Check and grease the prolink and swing arm bearings, replace them if there is rust (Same website as for the head bearings, article 91079-KA3-831 REPLACEMENT BEARING 17.5x24.5x22mm)
- Add a soft protector on the bottom of the rear mudguard so that the shock absorber is exposed less to the mud/dust/trash thrown by the rear wheel.

Rear Wheel


- Check the rim, if corroded replace it. I suggest you to go for and 2.15x18  or 2.5x18 rim. Check with central wheel.

- Cheange the bearings, two 6203-2RSH and one 6204-2RSH. Sealings can be found at cmsnl. Spacers if really worn out.
- Change the sprocket damping rubbers.

Final drive


- Cheap DID 525 vx chain can be found at biollamotors

- Rear sprocket from JT are cheap and fines
- Front sprocket has to be original for avoind the wearing out of the shaft.

Engine


- oil filter from hiflo filtro, oil bardahl xrc c60 10w-40, all very cheap from biolla

- Clutch, after all the years it start slipping even if it is not worn, change it with: https://www.ebay.it/itm/EBC-Kupplung-Rep-Satz-Honda-XRV-650-Africa-Twin-RD03/330951498403?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
(You will also need two exhaust gaskets)
- Check valves clearance and you are ready to go


Things that can be easily removed (after the above mentioned works):

- Forks side covers
- The plastic that holds the clutch cable on the triple calmp
- The plastic engine front guard
- The front sprocket cover
- Rear disc cover
- Chain guards on the swing arm
- The two small units for the pump and the headlamp, both situated in the front frame.
- The plastic cover of the ignition key